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Etch

Restaurants in big international hotels don’t have a great reputation, but Etch bucks the trend convincingly, both in terms of the food, the look and the snappy, friendly service. The slightly kooky décor, with its lovely lampshades echoing the wallpaper throughout the main dining area, echoes the unpredictable elements of the menu. Dense and gelatinous caramelised pig’s head with roast prawn and rhubarb and kohlrabi purée sits on the same page as light and spicy scallops with cauliflower purée, bhaji and curry oil, but that doesn’t rule out the more classically gorgeous lamb navarin with heirloom carrots, saffron potatoes and Madeira consommé from the main course options. The wine list is appropriate, offering a good selection by the glass, while the orange syrup cake with poppy seed and orange ice-cream is equally superb and the Etch lolly tray will make you smile.