The February issue

Our clean eating issue is out now, packed with super lunch bowls, gluten-free desserts and more - including our cruising special, covering all luxury on the seas.

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Recipes by Christine Manfield
21.02.2017

As the '90s dawned, darling chefs were pushing the boundaries of cooking in this country. A young Christine Manfield, just starting out at this heady time, soon became part of the generation that redefined modern Australian cuisine. She shares some of her timeless signatures from the era.

Cirrus, Sydney review
20.02.2017

Cirrus moves the Bentley team down to the water and into more lighthearted territory without sacrificing polish, writes Pat Nourse.

How to grow rocket
20.02.2017

A vegetable patch without rocket lacks a great staple, according to Mat Pember. The perennial performer is a leaf for all seasons.

50BestTalks brings World’s best chefs to Sydney and Melbourne
16.02.2017

Massimo Bottura and more are coming to the Sydney Opera House.

Toby Wilson, Sean McManus and Jon Kennedy to open Bad Hombres
16.02.2017

Expect Mexican-Asian flavours and an all-natural wine list from two of Sydney’s edgier operators.

Local Knowledge: Moscow
16.02.2017

Director of Shakespeare theatre company Cheek by Jowl Declan Donnellan walks us through the essential sights and his favourite cafes and restaurants of his hometown.

On the Pass: Danielle Rensonnet
16.02.2017

Bellota chef Danielle Rensonnet talks us through the current menu at the restaurant and her favourite summer ingredients.

Melbourne's Tomato Festival is back in 2017
15.02.2017

Returning for another year, Melbourne’s Tomato Festival is ripe with cooking demonstrations, talks, and produce stalls dedicated to plump produce.

Best at Est

Est's crack troupe of waiters is ferrying an extra-special line-up of dishes this month. An eight-course tasting menu, Peter's Best at Est, marks executive chef Peter Doyle's 10 years at the fine-diner. But with a repertoire that spans four decades, why stop at one? So Doyle has put together a greatest-hits compilation that draws from his back catalogue as well as the present, and shows good taste never goes out of fashion.

And what might his teenage self say about where he is today? "My 16-year-old self didn't have the slightest idea that I might be a chef," he says, "but he definitely would have thought it was a great idea to start work late enough to allow time for a surf whenever the waves were good. So, from that point of view, I'm sure he would say 'well done'." Indeed.

GT attended a dinner to introduce the celebratory menu, which will run until the end of November.

The food The menu nimbly traversed the decades, from 1988 - quail breast and bone marrow wrapped in Savoy cabbage - to the present. Classics from the Est menu included gazpacho consommé with buffalo mozzarella and green tomato, which first appeared in 2004, partnered at this particular dinner with its contemporary vintage of Dom Pérignon.

The drinks Dan Sharp, Est's head sommelier, masterminded the wine matches; stars included the Brash Higgins 2013 "SMR" Semillon-Riesling Field Blend, a vintage that produced only 600 bottles, half of which have been snapped up by Merivale group sommelier Franck Moreau. The 2011 Porter Creek Russian River Valley "Old Vine" Chardonnay, meanwhile, made a worthy partner to John Dory and grilled scallop with sauce Jacqueline.

We loved Everything, really, including the magnificent room and the choreographed service, but if we had to choose, it would be the raviolo of prawn with crab boudin, snow peas, ginger, soy and coriander - as fresh today as when it débuted in 1989.

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Latest news
50BestTalks brings World’s best chefs to Sydney and Melbourne
16.02.2017
Melbourne's Tomato Festival is back in 2017
15.02.2017
Sydney’s Tomato Festival returns in 2017
10.02.2017
Young Henrys and Mary’s charity cook up
09.02.2017
Victoria's inaugural garlic festival
02.02.2017
Reader lunch: Fred's, Sydney
24.01.2017
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