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Ezard

Teage Ezard’s sleek basement diner is nudging its 10th birthday but shows no signs of weariness or complacency. Rather, its ease and confidence make it a joy to settle into the well-upholstered, neutral-toned dining room. Service is a relaxed and exact high point, as is the superb novel-length wine list that is crafted around the exuberant, big-bang flavours bursting from the kitchen. Asian influences abound but there is also a strong European and Middle Eastern presence for those wary of the full-on mouth assault of barramundi fillet teamed with peppery herbs, corn cakes and a fiery nahm jim. More delicate combinations can be found in silky prawn dumplings with curry oil and cauliflower cream or wild mushroom tortelli teamed with wagyu salami. The sugar content in some dishes can be overwhelming but mostly the menu – like the whole Ezard experience – gets the balance right.