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Ezard

Order poorly and Teage Ezard’s punchy, predominantly Asian food can overwhelm with attention-seeking flavours. But outlay the time and money for the dégustation (budgeting for the star-studded cellar, too) and things slot into place, the meal gradually building rather than booming. Raw sesame-crusted kingfish with lime custard and puréed soy beans starts things slowly before a fat prawn dumpling in ume broth ups the ante. Slow-cooked pork belly with a spicy apple salad shows this bunker of a restaurant at its Asiatic best, although the tempura zucchini flower stuffed with herbed goat’s cheese suggests its versatility. The kitchen reaches a little too often for the sugar – the coconut rice with the otherwise exceptional roast duck tastes more dessert than side – while some staff come across a little on the sour side. More balance, and we’ll keep taking our dollars underground.