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Felix

Take two dollops of Montmartre, a splash of Manhattan, pour in chef Lauren Murdoch in a steady stream until your mixture emulsifies, and you might end up with something like Felix, the Merivale firm’s take on the bistro. The large room combines familiar elements – bentwood chairs, acres of tile, a seafood station heaped with ice – in a slightly left-of-centre manner. Murdoch does the same with the menu: snapper with buttery braised endives and almonds instead of sole meunière here, utterly classic hand-cut beef tartare there. Her tripes Lyonnaise is light enough to serve as an entrée, the Reuben sandwich rich enough to make a meal. Candied lemon brightens a cream-splashed lemon delicious pudding. Silken service takes time in large restaurants; for now, Felix offers waiters dashing and polite. The wine side of things, though, has been stunning from the outset. Drink deep, and enjoy.