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Fish Face

Some may call it an obsession, but to us, Steve Hodges’ dedication to sourcing the finest catch for Fish Face is the best reason to perch on a slightly uncomfortable bar stool in less-than-flattering lighting and savour some of Sydney’s best-handled seafood. They say simple is best; it’s certainly what Hodges does best – radically fresh fish, barely adorned. House-salted bass groper with wild rocket and a perfectly poached egg is a paean to stripped-back flavours. Butternut pumpkin soup is lifted by a generous drizzle of shellfish oil and a scattering of prawns. Pan-fried whiting’s crunchy sourdough crumb and accompanying aïoli and lime highlight the sweet flesh and illustrate Hodges’ approach perfectly. Portions aren’t huge and prices aren’t small, but there’s no disputing the quality. The superb chips are unmissable. Perhaps because they, too, a Hodges obsession.