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Flying Fish

Flying Fish may be in its seventh year, but the beautifully designed wharfside restaurant remains as fresh as the seafood (and the ideas) on the plate. The large wine list is put together with as much imagination as care, and that’s doubly true of the menu. An entrée of tender calamari pieces paired with chilli-spiked ink, finely sliced flat beans and tiny chive flowers makes for a result that’s as bright as it is tangy. Black pepper crab, three words that inspire the kind of giddy joy that only the word “bib” can top, is finger-licking sticky with a potent smack of curry leaf, but it’s the Sri Lankan-inspired grapefruit, lime and coconut salad accompaniment that takes it to the next level. It’s a must. Poached blackberry with olive oil cake and milk mousse, though it’s on the busy side, is as well realised and ambitious as any of the desserts. Long may the Fish fly.