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Four in Hand

Colin Fassnidge is a chef with an almost alchemical reputation for being able to transform seemingly mundane ingredients into dishes bordering on the sublime. He can certainly do smart things with sow’s ears, but it’s an unusual schnitzel offset with the sharpness of pickled cauliflower and sprout coleslaw rather than a silk purse. To take the other end of the argument, his masterstock-braised pig’s tail, laid soft and gelatinous across roast corn and lobster chowder is as satisfying as it is unusual. This under-sell, over-deliver approach is hardly confined to the food, either. Whether it’s the cosy comfort of the small pub-side room, the brilliant focus of the wine list, the quality of the Iggy’s bread, the candour and intelligence of the service, or the sweet finale of the ginger rice pudding, with its maraschino sorbet, there’s always more at the Four.