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Foveaux

The modest, almost gritty exterior and subdued, borderline austere décor of this largely unadorned room belie the exotic nature of Darrell Felstead’s food. Felstead is clearly confident in the kitchen, and in his team. Offal is not something he’s afraid of, nor are unusual pairings, as venison tongue with sea urchin custard, topped with a little crisp carrot, demonstrates to winning effect on the one plate. Quail with smoked eel croquettes is marginally less out-there, but no less satisfying; a caper purée adds piquancy, while beetroot introduces welcome earthy tones. Service could benefit, perhaps, from a bit more polish, but it’s certainly friendly and advice is readily given. Desserts are every bit as detailed as the savoury courses. A banoffee-like creation of caramelised bananas and banana ice-cream with digestive biscuits and tonka bean foam is the perfect finish.