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Garagistes

There’s a brilliant bloody-mindedness at work here. What better way to get locals offside than to conceive of a clever wine-list focus (wines made with minimal winemaker intervention) that excludes all but one Tassie producer? Adding a no-bookings policy and a shared-plates menu only fans the flames, surely. Then, to make matters worse, it turns out to be one of the most exciting restaurant openings in years, enchanting diners and wine adventurers from near and far. A place that’s resolutely casual, with bar seating and an open kitchen, yet home to quietly dazzling feats of kitchen craft, bespoke gardening and foraging from Best New Talent winner Luke Burgess: a sea urchin custard that offsets the briny sparkle with smoked mussels and abalone, say, or salt-roasted celeriac showered with crumbs of black pudding that’s deeply earthy in its satisfactions. Don’t miss it.