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Gastro Park

No jokes about the name, please. What they were trying to evoke with it was the sense of playfulness and adventure that’s at the heart of Grant King’s cooking here. King left the kitchen at Pier in Rose Bay, opening this modestly appointed paragon of bistronomy in mid-2011. There’s nothing modest about the food, which is wild, expressive and like nothing else in town. Duck, for instance, appears in the form of breast, duck ham and smoked tenderloin amid sinuous ribbons of fresh tagliatelle, marigold petals and pickled swede all under (get this!) a sheet of duck jelly. And it works. As does the snapper cooked scales-on. And the smoky tuna “yakitori” skewered on a tuna bone. And the downright kooky eggless pavlova showered with papaya and pineapple. The wine list isn’t quite so out-there, but the witty service certainly keeps pace every step of the way. We like.