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Glass

The space at Glass is striking. Well-spaced tables are something of a novelty, and cleverly make this cavernous room equally suited to a business lunch or a romantic dinner. The enormous menu is broadly appealing, although dishes read more like a list of ingredients than a description. Moreton Bay bug tails with carrot-sesame ravioli seem overwhelmed by currants, pine nuts and sage beurre noisette. It’s one element too many, although each element is well-executed. Simplicity works best here: steak tartare is the classic it should be; the most pared-back dish ‘off the grill’, 150-day grain-fed sirloin with beans, is well-rested and beautifully pink (as requested) beneath its herb-mustard crust. Textbook-perfect béarnaise sauce and fries are an irresistible side order. Swift, smart service underscores the experience; it all adds up to a hotel restaurant that stands out from the crowd.