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Glebe Point Diner

The message is subtle but consistent: eat local and profit. There’s Krug and premier-cru Chablis on the list, but it’s the state’s wines (and beers!) that are highlighted by the layout and the smart staff. Local provenance gets star billing on the menu: shoulder of Melanda Park pork, roasted gently until it all but falls apart over Savoy cabbage and lentils, or Brunswick Heads jewfish pan-roasted with a buttery mess of nettles, lettuce and zucchini blooms. Detours, as with the shreds of Tasmanian lobster enriching handmade orecchiette with baby broad beans, prove that the kitchen is run by flavour-loving chefs rather than ideologues. Desserts demonstrate that comfort doesn’t have to mean complacent, with ‘boozy’ sultanas and quince enlivening rice pudding and burnt toffee sauce giving chocolate mousse a twist. With smarts meeting heart, Glebe Point Diner is the local we’d love to see global.