Gourmet Traveller WINE Winemaker of the year 2010 finalist: Adam Wadewitz & Viv Thomson, Best’s Great Western
Two winemakers, one with 50 vintages under his belt, the other his talented young protégé, have worked wonders with a special plot of Australia’s vinous history.
Adam Wadewitz and Viv Thomson share their nomination as finalists in this year’s Winemaker of the Year awards for their significant joint contribution. Their outstanding work at Best’s Great Western continues the legacy of this iconic winery, established in 1866 by Henry Best. Originally known as the Concongella Vineyard, it contains the Old Nursery Block – a viticultural history book that remains the heart and soul of Best’s Great Western today.
It was the Old Nursery Block and the surrounding Concongella vineyards that swayed a talented, young Wadewitz to plunge headlong into polishing up the charms of Bests’ Great Western wines. And, one suspects, his interest was piqued by the enthusiasm of Viv Thomson, the fourth-generation Thomson family custodian of Henry Best’s original vineyards.
The Thomson family were established vignerons in the region when they purchased Best’s in 1920 for £10,000. Viv, who this year celebrates his 50th vintage, has an inquiring mind and a youthful energy that belies his 72 years. He pioneered chardonnay in the region in the late 1970s, along with premium sparkling wine and helped pull cabernet sauvignon into the public eye. His long career saw him deeply involved with the National Wine Show and the Victorian Wine Industry Association. His greatest contribution has been as a mentor to young people entering the wine industry.
Wadewitz is a McLaren Vale boy who began his career in a cellar-hand job with Geoff Merrill when he first left school. He worked with Ben Riggs at Wirra Wirra before heading overseas in 1999 to the Napa Valley and Jura. On returning to Australia, he fell in with PJ Charteris at Brokenwood and the Hunter’s new generation of winemakers like the Andrews – Margan and Thomas, whose enthusiasm made him return to South Australia to study oenology at the University of Adelaide. During this time, he also worked at Brokenwood, Petaluma and with Matt Harrop at Shadowfax.
He joined Best’s in 2005 and in his first vintage created a new wine, the 2006 Best’s Great Western Old Clone Pinot Noir from vines dating back to the 1860s. It’s a shining example of the new wave at Best’s, and also a recognition of the Concongella vineyards as a unique viticultural resource. He’s also spent considerable effort polishing Best’s’ remarkable shiraz resources. Working in the vineyards with Thomson’s son, Ben, Wadewitz has isolated individual plots and encouraged a return to hand-picking to add detail to the Best’s Great Western Shiraz – a medium-bodied, fine, multilayered style more inspired by the Rhône than McLaren Vale. The Best’s Great Western Bin 1 Shiraz is an affordable alternative to the benchmark Bin 0. In the exceptional years, a special parcel of Thomson Family Shiraz is released, rated “Outstanding” in Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine, with Bin 0 listed in the “Distinguished” category. The Best’s Great Western Cabernet Sauvignon is made in a gracious “claret” style, while the intense and vital Best’s Great Western Riesling attests to the unique terroir of the Concongella site.
After 50 vintages, Thomson is leaving the business and vineyards in the hands of Ben, with Wadewitz in charge of winemaking. The young guy’s star is burning bright, just look for the brilliant aura hovering over the Best’s Great Western Concongella vineyards.
TEXT PETER BOURNE PHOTOGRAPH BEST'S GREAT WESTERN
This article is from the June/July 2010 issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE.