Gourmet Traveller WINE Winemaker of the year 2010 finalist: Tim Adams, Tim Adams Wines
Guided by the philosophy of one of the Clare’s great winemakers, Tim Adams continues to buck the trends in Australian wine by crafting drops that stand on their own both here and overseas.
Tim Adams’ mentor was the legendary Mick Knappstein, who ran Leasingham in the Clare Valley for many years. “He employed me; he was my second father-figure,” says Adams.
That was in 1975 and Adams was 17. The son of a bank manager, Tim has spent most of his life in the valley, except to gain experience in California and Rioja.
There must be something timeless about the Knappstein philosophy. At a time when others are finding riesling difficult to sell, and many are once again dabbling in sweeter riesling styles, Adams’ riesling is unequivocally steely, high in acid and built for cellaring. And sales are increasing along the eastern seaboard. “It’s the way I was taught to make riesling by Mick,” he says. “And I’m sticking to it.”
Another Knappstein-ism is blending malbec with cabernet sauvignon, and Adams is about to add a cabernet malbec to his portfolio. Actually, his cabernet sauvignon is becoming a cabernet malbec from the ’06 vintage, in keeping with his “long-held belief that cabernet malbec is better in Clare than straight cabernet. My favourite Leasingham red was the Bin 56 Cabernet Malbec, which was started by Mick Knappstein.”
Tim Adams Wines, which he and his wife Pam Goldsack started in 1987, is perhaps most famous for its Aberfeldy Shiraz, sourced from an ancient block of vines that were originally part of Wendouree. It is a great wine, but Adams says he is even more proud of wines he’s created himself, such as the relatively new reserve tempranillo and pinot gris.Both wines were created from the ground up: “We didn’t have a berry of either,” he says.
They planted 14 hectares of each, which will yield 100 tonnes per varietal at full maturity, expected next year. Last year they bought the Rogers vineyard from Constellation Wines. When he and Pam started out they had no vineyards: now they own 142 hectares, and the crush has grown from 10 tonnes to over 1,000.
As for exports, he has a strong relationship with major supermarket chain, Tesco, which accounts for most of the 40 per cent of his production which goes to the UK. Many small winemakers have no love for supermarkets, but Adams is upbeat about Tesco. He and Pam regularly attend promotions over there to support the chain, and the effort pays off. “We’ve worked with them for 13 years and value the relationship,” he says.
China and India are the new frontiers. He has three distributors in China, is likely to sign a fourth, and is about to sign up an Indian importer. China is his second-biggest export market after the UK and will soon be No. 1.
Tim Adams’ wines are classically Clare: good, honest drops of generous flavour, ageing ability and regional style. Shiraz and riesling are the most important varieties. The Fergus, a grenache blend, which now incorporates tempranillo, is outstanding value as a ready-to-drink but serious quality red. His rieslings are among the finest and most ageworthy in Clare. And his new varieties are adding fresh strings to what is already a formidable bow.
TEXT HUON HOOKE PHOTOGRAPH TIM ADAMS WINES
This article is from the June/July 2010 issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE.