Gourmet Traveller WINE Winemaker of the year 2010 finalists: John & Belinda Thomson, Crawford River

John Thomson, a fourth-generation grazier, belongs to an era of “bucket science” winemakers who learned their craft through trial and error. With support from Seppelt, who had achieved early success with riesling at nearby Drumborg, two hectares were planted at Crawford River in 1975. This large sheep and cattle property, lying on the edge of Victoria’s Western District has been in the hands of the Thomson family since 1884. It was at a chance meeting with legendary winemaker Stuart Anderson, that convinced John Thompson to enrol at Charles Sturt University. His first wines were made with wife Catherine in the shearer’s quarters in 50-litre glass vats in 1979 and the existing winery was built in 1981 on the strength of the quality of the early wines.

The energetic Thomson, described the early days as “hastening slowly, as we weren’t experienced winemakers or viticulturists”. Trevor Mast, winemaker at Mount Langi Ghiran, was generous with his advice at the time. Viv Thomson of Best’s Great Western (no relation) organised a stint for him as an associate judge at the Melbourne Wine Show to expose his palate to a broader range of wines. Andrew Birks, Brian Croser’s successor at Wagga, opened his eyes up to winemaking. John explains: “It was the message: understand the principles and adapt to your own situation, that gave us the courage to forge ahead with our own convictions.”

Belinda Thomson grew up working during holidays on the family property.  After completing a bachelor of arts degree and a diploma in education at Melbourne University, she went to Lincoln University, New Zealand, to do a post-graduate wine and viticulture course. She has subsequently worked vintages in New Zealand and Europe; notably at the biodynamic winery Tenuta di Valgiano in Tuscany. For the last three years she has been managing and making wine at Bodegas y Viñedos Shaya in Rueda for Jorge Ordonez, one of the most influential wine merchants in Spain.

Riesling and cabernet sauvignon are the largest plantings at Crawford River reflecting the fashion of the 1970s. Certainly the reputation of Crawford River (and this nomination) is based strongly on riesling, including, when the season allows, a botrytis wine.

Every year, since 2004, Belinda returns to Crawford River for vintage. With a science background, she has encouraged experimentation in the vineyard and winery. The introduction of biodynamic viticulture is a work in progress and underpins the family’s interest in sustainable farming practices.

Harvesting time is intuitive to flavour development rather than potential alcohol. Although there is a wish for both the Reserve Riesling (off the oldest block) and Riesling to be around 12.5-13.5 per cent alcohol, vintage conditions do not always allow this to happen. Typically the grapes are crushed or whole bunch pressed into stainless-steel tanks. The clarified juice is batch fermented around 12-15°C and then allowed to sit on yeast lees for around six weeks to pick up complexity and texture. The wine is then racked off and stabilised before assemblage and bottling around September.

The vinification is straightforward and belies the attention to detail in vineyard and winery. Crawford River Riesling has emerged as one of Australia’s great aromatic wines. With its fresh, intense lemon tonic, pear, apple and oyster-shell aromas, superb lemon-curd richness, persistence and minerality, it reflects the modern idiom of the riesling style. Sommeliers across Australia have lionised this wine for its elegance and enjoyment with food. The limited-release Reserve has more powerful lemon-curd aromas, chalky texture and steely acidity. Although delicious when young, this is also a wine that demands cellaring.

WORDS ANDREW CAILLARD MW PHOTOGRAPHY CRAWFORD RIVER WINES

This article is from the August/September 2010 issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE.