Gourmet Traveller WINE Winemaker of the year 2010 finalists: Sue Hodder & Allen Jenkins, Wynns Coonawarra Estate

 

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The groundwork was set two years ago when Wynns Coonawarra Estate chief winemaker, Sue Hodder, and Foster’s regional viticulturist, Allen Jenkins, were finalists for Winemaker of the Year 2008 because their collaboration had transformed the quality, and subtly redefined the style of, the flagship Wynns reds.

Since he arrived from the Eden Valley in 2001, Jenkins has been a driving force for improving viticulture in the vineyards under his control in Coonawarra. By its nature, this work is long-term and on-going.

An experiment on three hectares of the Glengyle vineyard in 2002 saw the cordons cut from the vines. These were rejuvenated so successfully that this patch made a major contribution to the impressive 2007 Glengyle Cabernet. Subsequently, the rest of the Glengyle vineyard has been re-trellised.

Since 2001, more than 100 hectares have been replanted either because the vines were in poor health or the varieties planted were inappropriate to the particular soils. In an endeavour to improve their understanding of clone and soil interactions five cabernet sauvignon clones planted on both terra rossa and rendzina soils in the McBain vineyard have been tracked from veraison to harvest for colour and tannins. For the past three years, small batches of each of the clones have been made into wines to research which clones do best on which soils.

The collaboration between winemaker and viticulturist has meant that Hodder spends more time in vineyards and is more aware of their possibilities, whereas Jenkins has found the tasting bench an increasingly important part of his work. Hodder believes that a key understanding that has come out of their team work has been the realisation that tannin structure is crucial to getting flavours right.

The single-vineyard reds have also emerged from the exciting work begun in 2002. At present, Wynns make one single-vineyard red each year – 2003 and 2004 Johnson’s Block Shiraz Cabernet, 2005 Messenger Cabernet, 2006 Alex 88, and 2007 Glengyle Cabernet. To be chosen, a wine must be stylistically different from Black Label and John Riddoch, expressive of its own site and a historical fit within the Coonawarra story. After the frosts in 2007, the workers were aghast at the crop-thinning that was necessary to produce the 2007 Glengyle Cabernet. The results justify the tough decision as the wine has dense, gently ripe blackcurrant flavours, supple, smooth texture and fine, integrated tannins: all admirably balanced.

There are two V&A Lane reds – a shiraz and a cabernet shiraz. They will be released annually and represent the finest fruit from this area, with the focus on power and fine tannins. The possibilities offered by the new Wynns winery and the more detailed work in the vineyard can be seen with the V&A Lane Cabernet Shiraz. In 2008, two A-grade parcels and one C-grade parcel were identified. They were able to be vinified separately and the best two used in the wines. The 2008 V&A Lane Cabernet Shiraz has fragrant dark berry and creamy oak aromas, rich, concentrated wild berry and dark plum flavours, tight structure, good weight and substantial yet approachable tannins. The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon is finer, more delicate, with deep brambly, redcurrant and cassis flavours, silky texture and seamlessly integrated fine ripe tannins. There’s a lightness of touch before a powerful tannin whack and lingering redcurrant pastille to finish.

Much has been achieved at Wynns, although Hodder and Jenkins are not dwelling on that – rather, they are looking forward to the future. Both marvel at their collaboration and sing the praises of the talented teams with whom they strive to place Wynns’ name at the forefront of innovation and great winemaking in Coonawarra.

WORDS PETER FORRESTAL PHOTOGRAPHY WYNN'S COONAWARRA ESTATE

This article is from the August/September 2010 issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE.