Great wine drives: Barossa
What could be more enticing? Four days cruising two of the country’s most exciting wine regions – the Barossa and Eden Valleys. Local lad Tyson Stelzer gives the heads up on the hottest finds, from cellar-door only releases of the top producers to the hippest boutique wineries this side of Tanunda.
Barossa is another world. In the village of Angaston in the foothills of the Barossa Ranges the air is alive with the aromas of redgum crackling in the smokehouse at Schulz’s Butchers. The wood-fired oven of Apex Bakery fills the main street of Tanunda with its inviting fragrance, as it has done for almost a century. Barossa air is thick with the heady perfume of its inimitable heritage. But cool winds of change have come as a dynamic band of winemakers, old and new, breathe fresh air into the bellows of the region.
“How many Lutherans does it take to change a light bulb?” asks an old Barossa joke. “Change?!” Staunch defence of tradition is perhaps the greatest asset and the biggest liability of the German Lutheran history in Australia. Since settlement at Bethany in 1842, the Barossa has treasured its German produce, its authentic festivals and colourful parades, which put on quite a spectacle for locals and visitors.
During all that time, shiraz vines have thrived in the warm, sweeping expanse of the Barossa Valley floor, and it remains the region’s signature variety, responsible for intense, dark wines, layered with chocolate and black fruits. This style is more synonymous with the stereotypical Aussie red than any other, and when international trends favoured big, ripe, high-octane wines bombarded with lashings of American oak, the Barossa was quick to deliver.
The days of over-ripe blockbusters are numbered, and while the “bigger is better” mantra continues to live on in some local cellars, a growing group of producers is prizing balance, restraint and character over intensity, alcohol and wood. Viticulture that encourages flavour ripeness at lower sugar levels is paying dividends, as are techniques geared toward preserving aromatics and fruit definition. Traditional Barossa varieties are being reinvented through some of Europe’s clever tricks, including whole-bunch fermentation and carbonic maceration.
Such attention to detail has fuelled a renewed interest in sub-regionality. No longer are wines simply denoted as “Barossa”, but names like Marananga, Moculta and Moppa are increasingly emblazoned on labels. Debate is set to continue for some time as to precisely how these subregions should be defined and named, as trademarks prevent the use of familiar names like Koonunga, Ebenezer and Bethany. While the broader zones of Eden Valley and the north, centre and south of the Barossa Valley can be reasonably identified in blind tastings, more precise subregional recognition is patchy at best. For the visitor, this is further complicated by the blurring of characteristic aromas and tastes between small subregions, a loss of detail in over-ripe fruit and the ever-present, and often heavy, hand of the maker.
Consequently, an avalanche of new releases celebrating individual plots of the Barossa is perhaps of greater significance than frustrated attempts to identify the fingerprint of each subregion. The nuances of single-vineyard wines now provide the wine traveller with a thrilling opportunity to discover the Barossa in more detail than ever before.
The diversity of varieties that the Barossa nurtures to world-class standards is nothing less than remarkable. If shiraz is king of the Barossa Valley, riesling is queen of the windswept high country of Eden Valley. The two regions together make up the wider zone of Barossa. Eden’s cool nights preserve the fragrant aromatics and deep-set minerality that define the region’s finest whites. It competes fiercely with the Clare for Australia’s riesling crown.
The Barossa’s warmer sites have long been home to some of Australia’s most generous grenache and mataro, traditionally at their best in partnership with shiraz, but the recent focus on single vineyards has propelled these varieties to perform solo. Cabernet sauvignon has found more precise varietal expression in recent years, and cabernet shiraz is very much at home here. Merlot has been more celebrated in Eden Valley than any other place in Australia, as has viognier. The Barossa’s tawnies are exceptional, painstakingly assembled from extensive old stocks. The revival of Barossa semillon has been captivating in recent years, unearthing age-old rivalries when Peter Lehmann’s Margaret eclipsed the Hunter and claimed Best Wine of Show in Sydney this year. A number of alternative varieties are beginning to show promise, and tempranillo and savagnin are two to watch.
There is much that is new to be discovered, but it is perhaps a renewed recognition of the old that most defines today’s Barossa. The Barossa Old Vine Charter was launched to recognise and protect the oldest shiraz and cabernet vines in Australia, and most likely the oldest grenache and mourvèdre, too. It specifies that an “old vine” must be at least 35 years of age, with those over 70, 100 and 125 years given their own designations. It’s a useful means of quantifying the otherwise ambiguous idea of “old vines”, although it will be some years before this terminology appears on labels.
This recognition of the old has been reflected in a resurgence in the food heritage of the Barossa, a renewed initiative to revive and conserve the Barossa’s culinary culture. It’s ready to be rediscovered in producers’ markets, bakers, butchers, restaurants and cellar doors.
Day 1
The drive to the Barossa has never been easier. From Adelaide airport follow Main North Road or Port Wakefield Road and turn off on the new Northern Expressway. This will rocket you through the underbelly of Adelaide and have you reclining in the top end of the Barossa in as little as an hour. Of course, if a more leisurely pace is your vibe (about 70 minutes), I’d highly recommend taking the scenic route up North East Road to Tea Tree Gully, then wiggle your way between the hills to Chain of Ponds. Little South Para Road will deliver you to Williamstown, where the best coffee in town is being served at The Corner Store Bakery (1-3 Queen St, Williamstown, 08 8524 6246).
Williamstown is also the home of Fox Gordon (Lot 535, Flaxmans Valley, Yettie Rd, Williamstown, 08 8524 7149), and there’s no better way to begin your immersion in Barossa wine than with one of its most talented makers, Tash Mooney. There are few anywhere in the country with her ability to craft a diverse array of wines at consistently outstanding levels. The Fox Gordon range showcases the fruit expression that can be achieved when grape ripeness hits 14 per cent alcohol. Lift, spice, texture and perfume are her goals, which she cleverly attains by using techniques like blending cabernet with tempranillo and fermenting shiraz on the skins of the Italian varieties aglianico and sagrantino. Tastings are by appointment so be sure to call in advance.
Take the Lyndoch Valley Road north out of Williamstown for a few minutes until you hit Lyndoch and you’ll discover similar ingenuity at Dutschke (Lot 1, God’s Hill Rd, Lyndoch, 08 8524 5485, tastings by appointment only). The fruit purity and balance in Wayne Dutschke’s winemaking have established his reputation among the finest in the Barossa. He’s recently added an unusual newcomer to the fold: Dutschke Cab Mac Shiraz. This is a delightfully youthful and spice-laden style made using carbonic maceration (fermentation in a sealed tank to produce dark, juicy wines with soft tannins). It adds a new dimension to Barossa shiraz.
The Barossa Valley Way is the backbone of the region and a 15-minute cruise between the vines will lead you to its hub, Tanunda. Stop by the Barossa Visitor Information Centre (66-68 Murray St Tanunda, 08 8563 0600) to grab a copy of the Barossa Touring Map or, better still, the Barossa Wine Traveller (written by myself and Grant Dodd), which includes fold-out touring and topographical maps. It will guide you to all the top spots.
Just a few doors along the main street of Tanunda you’ll discover a great place for lunch at 1918 Bistro & Grill (94 Murray St Tanunda, 08 8563 0405). A seasonally inspired menu presents an Asian and Middle Eastern bent on modern Australian cuisine. BYO is welcome and the wine list offers a strong local selection and some highlights from abroad. Warm yourself by the fireplace in winter or relax on the veranda on a sunny afternoon.
Head south and just out of Tanunda you’ll find the historic Bethany Road. As you pull into Turkey Flat Vineyards (Bethany Rd, Tanunda, 08 8563 2851) you’ll make your way past 1920s grenache vines before you see the 1847 shiraz. The cellar door is located in a quaint 1860s butcher’s shop. Here you’ll discover the best rosé in the Barossa, a powerful and exotic pedro ximénez and, of course, old-vine shiraz.
When it’s time to bunk down for the night, The Louise vineyard retreat (Seppeltsfield Rd, Marananga, 08 8562 2722) is the Barossa’s most luxurious accommodation. If you’ve got cash to splash, treat yourself to the ultimate private hideaway, complete with uninterrupted vistas across adjacent vineyards.
Appellation restaurant (08 8562 4144) at The Louise is one of the finest regional dining experiences in the country and you must not miss the 10-course degustation, whether or not you’re staying the night. Chef Mark McNamara is a master of spice and of regional produce, adjusting his seasonal menu daily to feature ingredients from his kitchen garden and local producers. The wine list is extensive, plundering highlights from many of the best cellars, locally and internationally, young and old.
Many Barossa wine producers operate their own B&B accommodation, offering a special opportunity to enjoy country hospitality. At Whistler Farm B&B (Samuel Rd, Nuriootpa, 0415 139 758) you’ll appreciate the seclusion of the 18-hectare farm with vineyard vistas. Chris and Jayne Pfeiffer, of Whister Wines, enjoy a drink with their guests in the evening, and you can choose your own bottle from the underground cellar.
For a cosy place to stay in an original 1851 cottage in a vineyard, make a booking at Heritage Wines B&B (106a Seppeltsfield Rd, Marananga, 08 8562 2880). Breakfast is sourced from local producers and Steve and Christine Hoff’s garden.
Jellicoe House (Sawpit Gully Rd, Mt McKenzie, 08 8564 2741) offers a secluded getaway in a restored bluestone cottage surrounded by fruit trees in the middle of an Eden Valley vineyard. Helen and Simon Adams of Sorby Adams Wines provide provisions so you can create your own meals, or you can enjoy fully cooked meals through Helen’s Angaston Appetisers business.
For self-contained luxury, your dream abode is The Kirche @ Charles Melton (Krondorf Rd, Tanunda, 08 8563 3606). Charlie Melton and Virginia Weckert of Charles Melton Wines have converted the 1864 church at the front of their vineyard into a glorious B&B with a large kitchen filled with gourmet provisions.
Day 2
Be sure you’re in the Barossa on a Saturday because there is no more authentic experience of local produce than at the Barossa Farmers Market (cnr Stockwell and Nuriootpa Rds, Angaston, 0402 026 882). Arrive early and join the queue for a country-style bacon and egg roll with coffee for breakfast, then fill your bags with gourmet foods and fresh produce (some even picked that morning). I strongly recommend the Hutton Vale lamb.
You will want to be well fed because you’ve got a big day ahead, so if you miss the markets, grab a bite for breakfast at Blond Coffee (60 Murray St, Angaston, 08 8564 3444). The seasonal menu will satisfy any appetite, alongside coffee considered by some of the finest local palates as the best in the Barossa.
Then it’s off to discover the three most prominent wine producers in Eden Valley. Make your way from Angaston through the undulating hills, ancient gums and small pockets of Eden Valley vineyards to the little hamlet of Keyneton along Keyneton-Angaston Road, then left on Henschke Road (about 15 minutes). Before you visit Henschke (Henschke Rd, Keyneton, 08 8564 8223), book a vineyard visit and tasting of Hill of Grace (see website for details). Don’t miss the photo opportunity in the middle of Australia’s most famous single vineyard, with the church in the background.
On the way back to Angaston, Yalumba’s grand historic grounds beckon you to explore (Eden Valley Rd, Angaston, 08 8561 3200). There’s a working cooperage to discover between the picturesque gardens. Australia’s oldest family-owned estate is the country’s pre-eminent producer of viognier and champion of the cabernet shiraz blend. Look out for a series of outstanding Single Site wines. Made in miniscule quantities, these are almost impossible to find outside these hallowed walls.
There’s no cellar door at Irvine (Basil Roeslers Rd, Eden Valley, 08 8564 1046) so follow Mount Pleasant-Angaston Road south for 20 minutes for a tastings at the Eden Valley Hotel (11 Main St, Eden Valley, 08 8524 6246). Jim Irvine is Mr Merlot, and he crafts nine incarnations of the variety from his Springhill vineyard. The best are blends with merlot’s popular partners, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon.
On your way back to the Barossa Valley via Angaston, call in at Schulz’s Butchers (42 Murray St, Angaston, 08 8564 2145). The Barossa’s favourite butcher still uses original recipes. If you’re here early in the week they might even show you the smokehouse.
Charles Melton (Krondorf Rd, Tanunda, 08 8563 3606) is just a 15 minute zig-zag away. Follow Murray Street out of Angaston and turn left on Light Pass Road. Follow it to the end until it turns into Bethany Road. You can then either turn left on to Barossa Valley Road then left on to Krondorf Road, or if you fancy some dirt road action, take Nicolai Road off Bethany Road, right on Rifle Range Road then left on Krondorf Road. The veranda is one of the most serene spots in the Barossa for a casual cafe lunch. The simple but enticing seasonal menu showcases Barossa produce, and everything goes with Rose of Virginia Rosé! Charlie was one of the first champions of old-vine grenache and after 25 vintages his Nine Popes grenache blend remains one of the best. He is beginning to look to the cooler heights of Eden Valley to add extra dimensions of perfume and spice to grenache. Don’t miss his single-vineyard Richelieu from high atop Menglers Hill.
Across the road, Rockford (Krondorf Rd, Tanunda, 08 8563 2720) is one of Australia’s most famous cellar doors. Robert O’Callaghan built it and the winery by hand in the 1970s to replicate 19th-century winemaking. His Basket Press Shiraz is an icon, and sells out in just a few months.
If you’re in the Barossa for the weekend and don’t fancy a night in for a Farmers Market cook-up, stage your Saturday night extravaganza at Vintners Bar & Grill (Nuriootpa Rd, Angaston, 08 8564 2488). Head chef and co-owner Peter Clarke is behind a hearty, fuss-free regional menu. BYO is welcome and the wine list is impressive, with a tempting selection of international options if you’ve gone hard on the local juice all day.
Day 3
It’s time to explore the other side of Tanunda. Peter Lehmann (Para Rd, Tanunda, 08 8563 2100) has done more for Barossa wine than anyone else alive today, and a visit to the region would not be complete without venturing down Para Road and setting foot on the hallowed turf of his legendary establishment. Be sure to book a private tasting in advance, take your time and order a Weighbridge Platter of local produce. Lehmann’s three flagships, Stonewell Shiraz, Wigan Riesling and Margaret Semillon, rank high among Australia’s finest and longest-lived of these varieties.
Continue down Para Road and right on to Stelzer Road, past the Stelzer homestead (the family heritage of yours truly). Turning left on to Seppeltsfield Road will carry you through one of Australia’s most spectacularly distinctive five-minute wine drives, as lines of ancient date palms stand like sentinels to direct you through four right-angle turns without leaving Seppeltsfield Road. The steps up to the Seppeltsfield mausoleum are worth climbing, particularly if you’ve been indulgent with the Barossa mettwurst.
Seppeltsfield (Seppeltsfield Rd, Seppeltsfield, 08 8568 6217) is not just an historic cellar door and winery, it is a fully self-contained, heritage-listed wine village. This is a pilgrimage that every wine lover must make at least once in their life time, and The Centenary Tour is the ultimate way to experience it. Walk through 160 years of living history in some 24,000 barrels, taste the mind-blowing Paramount Collection, the 100 Year Old Para Vintage Tawny and even your own birth vintage. While you’re here, don’t miss the Ri-Chocolate Seppeltsfield Rare Tasting plate – handmade by Richard Carman to match the rare flight of wines.
You’ll need to take a moment to come back to earth after Seppeltsfield, and the Barossa’s favourite pub is just five minutes away.
Continue along Seppeltsfield Road, under the highway and into the picturesque village of Greenock. The Greenock Creek Tavern (Kapunda Rd, Greenock, 08 8562 8136) is an authentic and casual country pub. You’re sure to bump into the local wine fraternity here, hoeing into a rabbit stew or downing a few local beers from The Barossa Brewing Company.
For a different informal lunch treat it’s worth popping in to Maggie’s Farm Shop (Pheasant Farm Rd, Nuriootpa, 08 8562 4477). This is five minutes back the way you came on Seppeltsfield Road, then left on Samuel Road and right on Keller Road. You can taste more Maggie Beer products than you knew existed at this bustling providore, or grab a basket of local picnic fare or a pheasant and porcini terrine for lunch. Hang around for a free cooking demonstration at 2pm daily (no need to book).
Don’t linger too long, the wine circuit calls. Follow Seppeltsfield Road through the roundabout to Siegersdorf Road and right on Light Pass Road. The most exciting new development to come to the Barossa in recent times has just opened its doors. The long-awaited shared cellar door of the Artisans of the Barossa (cnr Magnolia and Light Pass Rds, Tanunda, 08 8563 3935) is now housed in the spectacular space that was once Murdock Wines and Restaurant. Local produce platters and themed flights from seven artisans (Hobbs, John Duval, Massena, Sons of Eden, Spinifex, Schwarz and Teusner) are already on the menu, and watch this space for degustations and other activities. It’s worth taking the time to book a private tasting to see a wider cross-section of wines from a particular artisan, and two to focus on are Teusner and Spinifex.
Kym Teusner prizes oak less than perhaps any other Barossa maker, preserving the fruit definition of his old-vine grenache, shiraz and mataro. This philosophy lends itself ideally to sparkling shiraz, too, and he’s just launched a ripper. Pete Schell’s Spinifex is another label that reflects sensitivity to its fruit. Papillon is a blend that showcases grenache at its fragrant, spicy, refreshing best, harvested a little early to highlight freshness, and fermented with a portion of whole bunches to inject spice, perfume and texture.
Time for some fresh air to walk off the wining and dining marathon? Just down Light Pass Road is the spectacular Menglers Hill Road. It’s a quick zip around Menglers Hill, then turn right and follow Tanunda Creek Road for a few minutes to Kaiserstuhl Conservation Park (Tanunda Creek Rd, off Menglers Hill Rd, Tanunda). This natural bushland setting is home to all manner of wildlife and you’re likely to see kangaroos and perhaps even a goanna. Assuming you do find your way back, swing by Menglers Hill Lookout (Menglers Hill Rd, Tanunda) to enjoy a postcard sunset and breathtaking panorama of vineyards, rolling hills and farm land.
If you fancy a round of golf instead, make your way back down the Barossa Valley Way to Rowland Flat and the Tanunda Pines Golf Club (Novotel Barossa Valley Resort, Golf Links Rd, Rowland Flat, 08 8563 1200). Restless kids? They’ll be fascinated by the Whispering Wall, where you can hear a whisper 100 metres away (Whispering Wall Rd, off Yettie Rd, half way between Lyndoch and Williamstown). Tolley Reserve (Murray St, Nuriootpa) is another favourite for the young ones, with a train park for the littlies and a skate park for the teens.
Casual dining is in order tonight and you’ll discover some of Australia’s best pizzas at the busy 40’s Cafe (30 Murray St, Angaston, 08 8564 2901). Bring a bottle and bask in the magic of the best fresh local ingredients and the inventive genius of Damon de Ruiter working the oven.
Day 4
The Barossa is the engine room for Penfolds and there are two compelling reasons why its Nuriootpa cellar door (30 Tanunda Rd, Nuriootpa, 08 8568 8408) should be in your sights. The first is a growing range of Cellar Reserve wines, many of which are difficult to procure elsewhere. This is where Penfolds wine-makers let their hair down and produce small batches of varietally distinctive wines. The second is Penfold’s Taste of Grange, a one-hour tutored tasting of Grange and other icons (book in advance). The Barossa’s subregional focus has come this year even to Penfolds, the master blender, in its new Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz.
Head south along the Barossa Valley Way to Tanunda and pick up supplies for lunch from Apex Bakery (Elizabeth St, Tanunda, 08 8563 2483). The traditional wood-fired oven of the favourite bakery of the Barossa has been burning since it was built in 1924, holding the record for Australia’s longest continuously fired oven, extinguished only twice for maintenance. Breads, pies, pasties and all manner of sweet delights are made using old-fashioned rising methods and emerge fresh from the oven each morning. It is an absolute pleasure to step through the doors into gloriously fresh aromas, and experience country service (you’ll even need cash!) and some of the best baked goods anywhere in Australia.
Loaded up for lunch, continue out of Tanunda on the Barossa Valley Way for a couple of minutes and your final stop is the spectacular new cellar door at St Hallett (St Hallett Rd, Tanunda, 08 8563 7000). Book a tasting in advance in the Old Cellar. Introducing a modern, thoughtful approach to Barossa reds in three distinctive new Cellar Door Releases. St Hallett Old Vine Grenache was the creation of dynamic young winemaker Toby Barlow, inspired by the elegance of pinot noir and made using techniques to capture delicacy and purity while still retaining the red fruit and spice hallmarks of grenache. He also created St Hallett Touriga Naçional, a traditional Port variety harvested early to showcase its aromatic lift and bright fruit as a table wine. The trio is completed by a savoury, age-worthy Cellar Door Release Tempranillo with toned, controlled alcohol.
Styles of such restraint and detail set the pace for the way forward for the Barossa. Travellers who take the time to seek them out will discover that there’s much more to this region than the stereotype would suggest. The future is certainly looking bright for the Barossa. Perhaps the light bulb doesn’t need replacing after all?
TEXT TYSON STELZER PHOTOGRAPHY BAROSSA TOURISM/DRAGAN RADOCAJ
This article is from the June/July 2011 issue of Gourmet Traveller WINE.