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Greenhouse

The vertical garden of potted ivy heralds a point of difference at this inner-city, green-thinking diner. Everything from the recycled furniture to the containers of herbs on the rooftop (along with a bar) wears the stamp of sustainability. Happily, it’s no token schtick. The eggs, pork, kingfish and octopus are also sustainable, and the bread is made from biodynamic flour. Like the rusty fencing-wire light shades, the produce-proud food is both rustic and hip. It matters little if you spring for the ocean trout with jewelled cauliflower couscous, tender confit lamb shoulder or baked custard with rhubarb compote – all deliver unexpected twists of flavour and flair. Service is cheerful to boot. Grilled haloumi, beetroot and poached wheat salad makes a feel-good lunch, while the quietly confident wine list offers high-end fizz but also reinforces the sustainable message with local, low-food-mile wines.