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Guillaume at Bennelong

In arguably the most beautiful dining room in the country, Guillaume at Bennelong deserves accolades simply for setting up shop in an Opera House sail. But there’s more at work here than Danish-designed beauty. Chef Guillaume Brahimi’s modern French food offers fine technique, regular theatrical flourishes and gold-label ingredients: truffle shavings on a dish of asparagus and spanner crab or seared foie gras in a pool of powerful duck consommé below a jumble of marron, oysters and radishes. It’s busy food – roast chicken and vin jaunedeglazed yabbies are surrounded by foie gras, morels, asparagus and corn – that sometimes trips itself up, as with an odd, over-sweet fruit soup with floating marshmallow sticks. Stumbles jar when prices are among the highest in the land, but a cracking wine list, helpful service and the swoon-worthy room help keep small irritations in perspective.