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Jackson’s

Jackson’s continues to follow its own path. Paying no heed to the casual, pared-back trend, consummate white-gloved waiters patrol the minimalist room, deploying course after course of intricate, multilayered cooking. A crumbed marble of foie gras, chicken and shards of poached lobster piled on a disc of grilled watermelon with curry beurre blanc sounds dubious, yet everything clicks. Tasting plate-style offerings show off the kitchen’s ability – a flaky pastilla crammed with slow-cooked lamb here, squares of roast and master stock-braised pork belly and crab fritter there. Desserts remain a highlight, from the comfort of blowtorched goat’s cheese on toasted sourdough to more worked dishes such as peaches with lavender panna cotta and burnt-honey ice-cream. The dégustation warrants consideration – the most affordable way to explore the hallowed cellar.