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Jacques Reymond

It’s nearly two decades since Jacques Reymond moved his restaurant into this imposing Victorian mansion on Williams Road, but weariness or complacency have made no inroads. Hushed rooms with statement light fittings and splashes of colour are ageing well, daughter Nathalie Reymond kicks goals with her deftly directed wine list and the service is seamlessly impressive. Chef Reymond continues his magic act of pulling disparate elements – poached partridge with liver and tarragon custard and a carrot and cauliflower curry, for example – into surprising, sometimes inspiring and always artfully plated combinations. There’s whimsy aplenty: a deconstructed paella that captures the essence of the robust classic or a chocolate plate of miniature desserts that reads like a greatest-hits parade. It’s an impressive package that has kept Reymond near the top of the tree for an impressive length of time.