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John Dory and shellfish ragoût with saffron rouille

“This reflects the cuisine I like to cook at my new bistro, PM24 – classic French dishes with a modern touch.” Philippe Mouchel, PM24

You’ll need to begin this recipe a day ahead.

John Dory and shellfish ragoût with saffron rouille

Serves 10
Cooking Time Prep time 1 hr, cook 2 hrs 45 mins(plus soaking, cooling, infusing)
80 ml   clarified butter
10   John Dory fillets (90gm each)
30 ml   olive oil
20   uncooked peeled prawns, tails intact
2   calamari, cleaned, cut into thick slices
20   mussels, scrubbed
20   clams, soaked in cold water to remove grit
2 tbsp   flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped
To taste:   sherry vinegar
To serve:   extra-virgin olive oil and hot paprika
Bouillabaisse fumet
40 gm   butter, coarsely chopped
60 ml (¼ cup)   olive oil
500 gm   fish bones, coarsely chopped
4   onions, thinly sliced
1½   large fennel, thinly sliced
3   garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
1 tbsp   fennel seeds
Large pinch   saffron threads
140 gm   tomato paste
1 litre   chardonnay
2 litres (8 cups)   chicken stock
1 litre (4 cups)   fish stock
Large pinch   cayenne pepper, or to taste
2 each   fresh bay leaves and thyme sprigs
Rouille
150 ml   olive oil
1   garlic clove, bruised
Large pinch   saffron threads
1   small Desiree potato, coarsely chopped
2   egg yolks
1 tsp   white wine vinegar
125 ml   warm clarified butter
Bean purée
600 gm   dried borlotti beans, soaked in cold water overnight, drained
1 tbsp   olive oil
1 each   onion, carrot, celery stalk and leek, coarsely chopped
2   garlic cloves, crushed
1.5 litres (6 cups)   chicken stock
60 gm   butter, coarsely chopped
2 tbsp   sherry vinegar


1 For bouillabaisse fumet, heat butter and oil in a very large saucepan over medium heat, add fish bones, onion, fennel, garlic, fennel seeds and saffron and sauté until vegetables are tender (10-20 minutes). Add tomato paste and stir occasionally until paste darkens (3-5 minutes). Add wine and reduce by one-quarter (10-15 minutes). Add stocks, cayenne pepper and herbs and simmer until infused (1 hour). Strain through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan (discard solids), return to the simmer, reduce over low heat until well-flavoured (20-30 minutes), set aside.
2 Meanwhile, for rouille, combine oil, garlic and saffron in a jar and set aside to infuse (overnight). Transfer to a small saucepan (discard garlic), gently warm to 40C. Set aside, keep warm. Place potato in a saucepan, cover with cold water, simmer over medium heat until potato is tender (10-15 minutes), drain, press through a ricer, season to taste, keep warm. Meanwhile, whisk yolks, vinegar and a pinch of fine salt in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water until thick and fluffy (5-7 minutes). Add 40gm potato (discard remainder), whisk to combine, then, whisking continuously, add butter and saffron-infused oil in a thin steady stream until incorporated, season to taste, set aside and keep warm.
3 For bean purée, place beans in a large saucepan, cover with cold water, bring to the boil over medium heat, simmer for 3 minutes. Strain, set aside. Heat oil in a separate large saucepan over medium heat, add onion, carrot, celery and leek, stir occasionally until starting to caramelise (8-10 minutes). Add garlic, cook until starting to caramelise (4-6 minutes). Add stock and beans, bring to the boil, then simmer until beans are tender (40-45 minutes). Strain through a fine sieve (reserve liquid), discard vegetables, then process half the beans and 100ml liquid in a blender until smooth (add more stock if necessary). Season to taste, add butter and vinegar, process to combine, set aside and keep warm.
4 Meanwhile, preheat oven to 50C. Heat clarified butter in a large frying pan over medium-high heat, season fish and cook in batches, skin-side down, until golden (1-2 minutes), transfer to a baking tray lined with baking paper and roast until just cooked through (8-10 minutes).
5 Meanwhile, add half prawns to pan, sauté until just cooked through (2-3 minutes), set aside and keep warm, then repeat with remaining prawns. Add calamari to pan and sauté until just cooked through (2-3 minutes), set aside and keep warm.
6 Warm bouillabaisse fumet and remaining beans in a saucepan over medium heat, add mussels and clams, cook until shellfish open (6-8 minutes), season to taste, then add parsley and vinegar to taste. Divide bean purée between bowls, top each with a piece of fish, then rouille, then divide seafood and bouillabaisse fumet between bowls, drizzle with olive oil, season to taste with hot paprika and serve hot with rouille.

This recipe is from the January 2011 issue of Australian Gourmet Traveller.

Drink Suggestion 2008 Yering Station Chardonnay

RECIPE Philippe Mouchel, PM24 PHOTOGRAPHY Ben Dearnley STYLING Emma Knowles DRINK SUGGESTION Philippe Mouchel


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