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Kitsch

Beyond the lacquered red gates of this vibrant, noisy Shanghai night market/boho-chic hybrid beats the heart of a small bar – albeit one with modern Asian bar snacks such as deep-fried prawn toast sandwiches with lemon ponzu or seared scallops with egg nam prik. Then there’s the more substantial stuff; braised Angus beef with black vinegar and a hot and sour salad, or tender salted Tasmanian trout served with tamarind caramel and a crisp Sichuan hen’s egg. At twice the price, complaints about the lack of frills might be justified, but when a tenner gets you crunchy corn fritters with fresh coriander, chilli syrup and change, it feels churlish to whinge. Instead, smile politely and spend those surplus dollars on a must-do chocolate “sandwich” with peanut brittle ice-cream, or an additional libation from the modest list of wines, cocktails and Asian beers.