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Lake House

Alla Wolf-Tasker talks the seasonal talk and walks the locavore walk. Her menus list key suppliers and what’s in season, and locals are highlighted on the 30-page wine list. Her house-made charcuterie is exceptional, and the sun can be tasted in tomatoes served fried green, with mozzarella and as a shot of gazpacho. Duck in two courses is a standout. First, a wonton in broth, then a nicely pink roast breast with duck sausage – heavy with thyme, rustic in texture – and a shard of duck skin. It’s beautifully presented, as is Ballan lamb, very rare, with a crown-like zucchini flower and confit tomatoes, and Champagne semifeddo and berry millefeuille, with a line of sherbet for extra buzz. Perhaps the sheer volume of diners prevents staff from being anything more than perfunctorily professional but, with happy chatter drowning out the jazz soundtrack in the smart dining room, no-one seems to mind.