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Lochiel House

Lochiel House is a great proponent of the idea that “country” doesn’t always have to equal “rustic”. Not on the plate, at any rate; the historical cottage it occupies is traditional with a capital T, even if the major-highway setting isn’t exactly capital-P pastoral. Anthony Milroy’s menus somehow strike an ideal balance between substance and levity: a subtly soy-smoky Japanese-style steamed custard concealing treasures of scallop nubbins, eel and black truffle, say, followed by buttery pan-roasted trout with prosciutto and the sympathetic flavours of pearl onion, kale and artichoke. Host Monique Maul is a natural, and her manner as welcome as the offer of everything from apple juice from nearby Bilpin to aged Canowindra shiraz. Superb cheesecake ice-cream on the blueberry muffin cake leaves a parting impression of the best kind.