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Longrain, Sydney

Take dishes packed with aromatic Thai flavours and match them with funky cocktails or delicate, lively wines. Now throw in a party of fun-loving staff and stage it all in a loud, dimly lit warehouse. The result is Longrain, where communal dining brings together stilettos, flats and loafers, scuffs and square-toe lace-ups. A renovation, which moved the bar downstairs to make way for more booth seating, has given the restaurant new energy. The classics still hit their mark. Caramelised pork hock is memorable as ever, sticky with sweetness, undercut by spicy chilli vinegar, playing acidity, texture and crunch all off the same plate. Ocean trout fillets in a blackened salt crust are set about a refreshing salad of Vietnamese mint, ginger and green chilli nahm jim. Durian, love or loathe it, works in light, fluffy coconut pancakes paired with passionfruit ice-cream.