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Longrain, Melbourne

Oh, this is fun, Longrain at capacity. A cavernous room with the din of hip, happy punters sipping Ping Pong cocktails at the bar, falling into the wait-list line snaking its way towards the entrance, or perhaps rubbing shoulders with strangers at communal tables shouting over the sound of sauced-up jazz. The menu is equally exciting. A pocket rocket of flavour comes by way of a betel leaf cradling smoked trout, bursts of chilli, galangal and salmon roe. Chunks of kingfish swim in a green coconut curry broken by green beans and the crunch of crisp-fried shallot. Duck salad defies any oiliness from the meat, bright with chilli, coriander, ginger and cucumber. Desserts leave tastebuds tingling. Passionfruit lifts tapioca to great heights, crowned by a sticky disc of butterscotch. The succinct wine list deserves applause, too. After this, all you need is the strength to roll out the door..