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Lucio’s

Picture an Italian restaurateur who is obsessed by Australian art. His restaurant overflows with Storriers, Zofreas and Blackmen. Memorably, John Olsen’s Great Noses of Australia decorates the wine list. That restaurateur is a standard-setter in his city for smiling professionalism on the floor. The restaurateur is Lucio Galletto, the restaurant, Lucio’s. Regulars love the green tagiolini with blue swimmer crab meat, but the true die-hards go for the off-menu specialty of Galletto’s Liguria: pancake-like pasta triangles known as testaroli, dressed with pesto. Were we to gripe, it would be only to show our admiration for the simplicity of the likes of prosciutto with focaccia, fresh borlotti beans and sweet picked onions over less Italian-seeming constructions such as the quail and poached quail’s eggs on thick chestnut and porcini soup. There’s plenty of Mod-Italian out there but only one Lucio’s.