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M on the Point

“A spot away from the bar, thanks, mate.” State this when booking and you should have a roaring good time (without the actual roaring). While it’s at the pubbier end of the dining spectrum, this letter M fits its regional seaside locale just dandy. Chef Ivan Mather does great things with simple produce, from pert scallops with mushy pea purée to a solid ham and parsley terrine. As the clientele demands, main courses and desserts are big and hearty both in size and flavour, the squid tubes packed with chorizo and prawns a case in point. Crème brûlée, a veneer of crunch over thick, custardy goodness, is the size of a small child’s head, while a Bounty-inspired dessert of coconut liqueur and dark curaçao layered into a cocktail glass is pure hedonism. The linen is white, the service is smiley and a vista of yachts bobbing along the estuary at sunset never did anyone any harm.