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Maisonette

There’s been lots of talk about the eclectic experience to be had between these unassuming walls. That Gabriel Martin (ex-Le Restaurant) chose suburban Essendon for his first solo foray might indicate he’s comfortable with risk-taking. It’s an impression backed by the menu’s dazzling combinations. Roast duck breast with mint syrup and coconut shot? John Dory with dried pancetta, apple and mussel stock? Some of Martin’s wilder imaginings perplex; most reveal a nimble balance of flavour and texture. There are more conventional options, such as artful pithiviers of quail with goat’s cheese; cute desserts, such as pearl barley ‘risotto’ with tea ice-cream and pineapple kebab, show an emphasis on presentation. There’s a warmth to Maisonette, with its banquettes and flickering candlelight, that defuses the more out-there exhibitionism.