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Manta

If Manta were a car, it would be an executive saloon – polished, quietly luxurious, great handling; no shocks, surprises or showiness. It’s all about well-cooked seafood and steak with an Italian edge, served beside the world’s most beautiful harbour. Simple as that; except not everyone can present proteins this well. Slices of seared, lemon pepper-crusted yellowfin tuna with avocado mousse and gazpacho jelly boast bright, jewelled centres. Grain-fed Angus steak melts with just enough marbling, needing nothing beyond a tangy salsa verde and a cone of well-made chips as an accent. And Manta is so rightly proud of its oysters that it holds a festival of them each year. The relentlessly sweet desserts could do with a little more cruise control but the wine list, led by Victorian winemaker Nick Farr’s superb house offerings, is both thoughtful and thorough.