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Margan

There’s a lot to be said for chooks as decoration. Not just on plates, that is, but in the kind of vineyard/kitchen garden vista this modern room affords its many guests during lunch. Margan goes the furthest of any Hunter standard-bearer to integrate restaurant and setting. The pencil fennel and knobbly heirloom carrots that accompany fork-tender braised wagyu shin are from the garden, as are the superb and simple sides of sweet, slender carrots in butter and chunks of potato with rosemary. This is a kitchen that goes the extra mile, whether it’s in the form of house-made butter sprinkled with black salt, or the offer of a sweet little amuse of Binnorie feta with beetroot and pangrattato. The wheels fall off a bit at dessert (the strangely dry apple and date cake is a clanger), but an engaging wine list and switched-on service engender largesse on the part of diners.