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Matteo’s

Reports of the death of fine dining are greatly exaggerated. It’s alive and well at this history-soaked site, a large Victorian terrace divided into intimate spaces. Velvet drapes, lush wallpapers and crisp damask add luxe appeal, and there’s clear commitment to service: polished and knowledgeable, not starchy and ceremonious. Chef Brendan McQueen (ex-Ezard) plucks ideas from Asia, overlays them with classical technique and plates them with contemporary Australian style. Tempura-battered zucchini flowers stuffed with creamy feta come on a square of watermelon, while oysters are teamed with panko crumbs, dashi jelly or yuzu citrus vinaigrette. Elegant main courses include tender, well-rendered duck breast scented with five-spice and wagyu sirloin with okonomiyaki pancake and wasabi peas. Don’t miss cheeky desserts such as the Splice reimagined as fruit and coconut milk gelati.