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Me Wah

The bottles of grand cru lining the wine room are a clue that this isn’t your usual suburban Chinese restaurant. While Me Wah may offer some lemon-chicken standards, it delights those after something more special. Dumplings are a perfect start. The seafood section of the menu satisfyingly meanders from Tasmanian lobster, scallops and squid to abalone, particularly good braised in oyster sauce with shiitake mushrooms. If you are looking for something to have with that bottle of Pétrus that caught your eye, then David Blackmore’s wagyu may do the trick – the beef cheeks are twice cooked with Sichuan chilli. Me Wah can slip into Western-Chinese format, as is the case with a cloying lobster soup, but redeems itself with the excellent simplicity of braised handmade egg noodles in an abalone reduction with ginger, spring onion and shiitake – a triumph.