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Mezzalira

Despite the competition in this neighbourhood, Mezzalira succeeds by holding fast to its southern Italian roots. Stylish surroundings – honey-coloured timber details, yellow walls and scarlet upholstery – create a sense of warmth and wellbeing. The food is generous in flavour and size; you could make a meal of the focaccia with rosemary, but exercise restraint as you hear the rollcall of specials. Try the tender, lemony calamaretti fritti or rich venison rotolo with sage butter. Twice-cooked duck with pancetta and Marsala glaze is aromatic (gnaw every bit off the bone, unashamedly) and green beans snap agreeably. There’s the expected panna cotta and gelati, but a special of mascarpone-rich trifle with frozen berries is a winner. Good coffee and a fine wine list round out a well-orchestrated evening. The ‘fine produce and simple flavours’ approach is touted by many, but few do it so well.