WHERE TO TRY THEM
Yellow Pâtissière to the stars Lorraine Godsmark’s lush fruit mince tarts consist of dried figs, prunes and candied orange enclosed between two types of pastry – shortbread and puff. 57-59 Macleay St, Potts Point, NSW, (02) 9357 3400.
Phillippa’s Melbourne’s famed bakeries do a very traditional tart, all suet-free and handmade with plenty of butter. 1030 High St, Armadale, (03) 9576 2020, and 608 Hampton St, Brighton, (03) 9592 7340, Vic, www.phillippas.com.au.
Jocelyn’s Provisions The secret to these wonderful tarts, says Jocelyn Hancock, is "lots of booze" and pâté brisée pastry. Can’t argue with that. Centro On James, James St, Fortitude Valley, Qld, (07) 3852 3799.
Mince pies
These spiced-fruit delights come into their own at Christmas.
“It’s mince, Jim, but not as we know it.” The mince in question here today refers, of course, to the chopped dried fruit that constitutes these classic Christmas pies’ filling (typically an assortment of currants, raisins, peel and apples buoyed with spices and a good lick of brandy or rum). But it wasn’t long ago that it was a different story.
Up until the 19th century, mince pies (they’re called mince tarts if they don’t have lids) were indeed made from minced or shredded meat, typically pork, beef or a mixture along with the fruit, as were Christmas puddings. Gradually the balance tipped in favour of more fruit and less meat (fruit becoming much cheaper over the course of the Victorian period may have been a factor) until almost no flesh of beasts remained. Suet is still used in many recipes (most butchers can render this beef fat for you with a little notice), as it is here – a preserving agent, it doesn’t go rancid like butter, and it moistens the mixture and adds flavour.
Meat or no, traditions abound. The stars sometimes seen topping them are symbolic of the star that led the Magi to Bethlehem. Folklore also has it that eating a pie on each of the 12 days of Christmas brings wealth and prosperity for the future 12 months. Whether they truly assure good fortune or not, these sweet treats are worth the eating.
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Mince pies
Serves
24
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60 gm
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each of currants, sultanas and raisins
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1
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Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and coarsely grated
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50 gm
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slivered almonds
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50 gm
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cold beef suet or unsalted butter, finely chopped
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25 gm
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candied orange slices, finely chopped (see note)
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1
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lemon, finely grated rind and juice only
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150 gm
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light muscovado or brown sugar
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½ tsp
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each of ground cloves and nutmeg
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¼ tsp
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each of ground cinnamon and allspice
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60 ml (¼ cup)
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brandy or rum
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For scattering:
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caster sugar
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| Pastry |
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300 gm
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plain flour
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60 gm
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corn flour
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1 tbsp
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caster sugar
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200 gm
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chilled unsalted butter, chopped
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1
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egg, separated
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1
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Rinse dried fruit under cold running water, then pat dry. Place in a bowl, add remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Store in a sterilised jar for up to 3 months in the fridge, inverting the jar occasionally. Makes 4 cups.
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2
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For pastry, sift flours into a bowl, add sugar and, using fingertips, rub in butter until mix resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add egg yolk and 1-2 tbsp water, turn onto a floured surface and knead until smooth. Form into a disc, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
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3
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Preheat oven to 200C. Roll pastry onto a floured surface and, using a 6cm cutter, cut out 48 rounds. Line patty pan trays with half the rounds, place a tablespoon of mince into each, brush edges with eggwhite, place remaining rounds on top, press sides together, pierce top with a fork and scatter over sugar. Bake for 10 minutes or until lightly golden. Serve warm or at room temperature. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
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WORDS Belinda So
RECIPE Adelaide Lucas
PHOTOGRAPHY Luke Burgess
STYLING David Morgan
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