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MoMo

With its crystal-studded ceiling and teeming references to Middle East-themed glamour, MoMo is all about the Big Night Out. It starts with a drum-rolling elevator ride to the basement dining room and extends to well-groomed, well-drilled waiters, a benchmark-packed wine list and, the main draw, chef Greg Malouf’s often brilliant modern Middle Eastern cooking. A choice of sharing menus, silver-served at the table, means everyone tries everything, perhaps a toe-curlingly good Turkish-style seafood soup fragrant with fenugreek, amazingly textured steak tartare-like kifta nayee with its slow chilli burn, honey-drizzled haloumi fritters or veal shank and tongue with earthy little silverbeet dumplings. Not everything hits the same heights, making for an occasionally bumpy ride, but there’s enough magic, particularly when the three-part dessert mezze hits the table, to keep the smiles in place.