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MoVida

Manet so disagreed with Spanish cooking he once spent two weeks in Madrid without eating. If only he’d experienced MoVida – the painter might have been converted by Frank Camorra’s Impressionist take on Spanish food, likewise drawing on a rich tradition and applying a modern, bold technique. Take his oysters – plump St Helens specimens allied with apple cider and garlic foam are ethereal yet earthy. The kitchen is equally sure-footed on more traditional territory, from perfectly spiced, hand-chopped wagyu tartare to tender char-grilled octopus with ajo blanco. The Spanish-skewed wine list also ventures into other terroirs. Crowd-pleasing desserts include a dramatic hot chocolate ganache pudding that gushes with the good stuff. Like the Impressionists, Camorra’s influence has been such that his techniques no longer shock and awe, but remain terrifically satisfying.