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Must Margaret River

In both service and style, Must is more laid-back and casual now than when it opened in 2009. But bar snacks and charcuterie still gratify, a cellar rich in local treasures continues to lure oenophiles and the food remains big and robust. Triangles of sweet char-grilled squid top a hillock of well-seasoned salad dressed with a saffron-rich vinaigrette. Pan-fried gnocchi are beefed up by an earthy mix of thick-cut mushrooms, slow-cooked tomatoes and melted Taleggio, while plump house-made sausages pack a whump of porkiness with a fresh herb lift, waxy mash and rich jus. Desserts, though predictable, satisfy: dense brûlées crackle pleasingly, while scoops of lush fig ice-cream evoke summer all year round. Lunch specials are great value, but the menu-proper is only available at dinner, reinforcing Must’s reputation as Margaret River’s place to be after dark.