The golden rule for matching wine with desserts is that the wine needs to be sweeter than what’s on the plate, or the higher sugar level of the food will drown out the sweetness in the drink and make it taste dry and watery. The beautiful thing about this tart is that the richness and sweetness of the caramelised fruit and sugary pastry is wonderfully offset by the creaminess and fluffy texture of the ricotta and the woody aromatic character of the spices, creating an overall impression of a not-too-sweet tart. As a result, you don’t need to match it with too luscious a wine: a brachetto would be perfect. Brachetto is a little-known grape grown in Piedmont, north-west Italy, where it produces naturally low-alcohol, gently fizzy sweet wine with aromas of wild strawberry and herbs. In many ways, brachetto resembles pink moscato, but it has a bit more depth and vinosity than the other, much more well-known Piedmontese sweet sparkler. —
MAX ALLEN