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North Bondi Italian Food

The modern Italian menu sprawls, the waiters customise their denim uniforms and the décor mutates at the whim of staff and patrons, with posters appearing on the ceiling and sketches scrawled everywhere from the unisex bathrooms to the beach-fronting veranda. But for all its bohemia and controlled chaos, polish and smarts keep North Bondi steady. You might wait a while between visits from your waiter, but when you see them they’ll bear double-cooked chicken broth with chicken and parmesan dumplings or carpaccio of white fish with fennel seeds, chilli and lemon. The trick is to order big and share, making for better odds of winners (mortadella, warmed) over duds (blah eggplant parmigiana). Wine runs from inexpensive to just plain cheap. The party vibe isn’t for everyone, but fans of this unique restaurant savour it from Campari-grapefruit to orange granita with sweet cream.