On the Road

Thursday, 2 October, 2008, 09:48 AEST

Designer donuts

Discerning Los Angelenos know better than to satisfy their sugar cravings with Krispy Kreme. Pampered palates such as Nicky Hilton's and Arnold Schwarzenegger's get their frosted fill at Frittelli's (350 North Canon Drive #6, Beverly Hills, +1 310 276 1408, frittelli.com) a swanky European-style bakery in Beverly Hills purveying designer donuts. Much ado is made of the nutritional nuance that all the exotic variations on this quintessentially American treat here are trans-fat-free. Traditionalists like California's governor go for the fritters in seasonal flavors like pear and banana as well as the classic green apple. Adventurous indulgers should consider the moist red velvet, decadent Callebaut chocolate with Boston crème filling or Pina Colada glazed for some south of the border excitement. Skinny starlets start their day with a double dose of caffeine thanks to mocha and vanilla latte cake donuts prepared with Frittelli's own bespoke espresso roast and a cup of the addictive brew, while others swear by the pastry chef's sticky sweet take on an American classic: peanut butter and raspberry jam filled. - CYNTHIA ROSENFELD

Monday, 15 September, 2008, 10:29 AEST

Long table, Thai treat

Think Thai communal dining — then think again. Long Table is adding spice to Bangkok's dining scene, with up to 60 patrons at a time going elbow to elbow at the restaurant's namesake, a 24-metre solid teak centrepiece, while surrounding video screens erupt with non-stop visual entertainment. Conceived by the same team that came up with Bed Supper Club, Long Table also features a number of smaller booths where diners can feast on authentic Thai food presented with a creative twist. A buzzing bar and city skyline panorama complete the scene at the capital's chicest new eatery. - ED PETERS

Wednesday, 10 September, 2008, 09:28 AEST

Hot foot it

They look good enough to eat, they fit like a glove, and the Cataribbon, Tiburon and Isabelle espadrilles are the latest, coolest, must-have holiday souvenir. Designer Christian Louboutin was inspired to conjure up the limited-edition collection – comprising mules, wedges and flats – while staying at the One&Only Reethi Rah resort in the Maldives, and the espadrilles are sold exclusively in the group's boutiques, and at Louboutin stores in London and New York. Prices for the chic, colourful, comfortable espadrilles start at US$375 per pair. – ED PETERS

Monday, 1 September, 2008, 11:47 AEST

Bangkok bites

Stroll down any Bangkok street and you come across food stalls in every available space. It all looks and tastes absolutely delicious but, even so, what you see on the streets generally doesn't measure up to the treasures of the Aw Taw Kaw (aka Or Tor Kor) fruit, vegetable, meat and seafood market.

Like just about everywhere else in Bangkok, Aw Taw Kaw market has plenty of prepared food as well as the fresh produce. Some of the prepared dishes — such as containers filled with a mixture of tiny taro, vegetable and bamboo-filled dumplings — can be easily bought and eaten there and then. You can also devour fermented sausages, roasted pork belly, and delicious strips of crispy pig ears that come with a light chilli dipping sauce (make sure you're well-armed with hand wipes). You could probably even manage some hor mok if you think to take a spoon with you, but many dishes are designed to be taken away and eaten later — there are whole feasts just waiting to be transported to people's homes. Even if you don't have a kitchen to go back to, there's more than enough to learn by just absorbing the aromas, ingredients and textures.

The market has a reputation for excellence and after a stroll through its many stalls, and a few samples, it's clear that the quality is extraordinary — the tiny dumplings are more delicate and more expertly crafted, the grilled chicken more succulent, and the durian unbelievably creamy and rich, than any we've ever eaten.

One of the things we like best about visiting Aw Taw Kaw is that it acts as a benchmark for the rest of your Bangkok street food adventures. It should be a must visit if you're trying to learn more about Thai food and you should allow at least half a day to fully explore it. You can reach it easily on the MRT, Bangkok's relatively new, shiny underground rail system. Get out at Kamphaeng Phet station, which is a good 30 minutes from central Bangkok, and take Exit 3. You come out right at the edge of the market. (At the MRT station, the sign says MOF Market, an indication that the full name of this market is the Marketing Organisation for Farmers market.)

At the rear of the market, there are also some food stalls and some tables and chairs, so a good plan is to make this a morning visit and have lunch at the food stalls, where you can feast on various types of noodle soup, spicy issan food, and roast duck. There are also plenty of interesting drinks too (including a surprisingly refreshing one made from fresh corn), sugarcane juice pressed while you wait, and all sorts of fruit juices. However, there are virtually no signs in English so, if you don't speak Thai you'll either need to rely on the pointing method for ordering or, better still, get some help from your hotel and organise for a guide to accompany you. - SUE DYSON AND ROGER MCSHANE

Wednesday, 20 August, 2008, 09:50 AEST

Time to retreat

Seclusion is the key at this new Phuket hideaway...

The winds of change are blowing through Patong, long famed as the epicentre of Phuket's wilder goings-on after hours. Down an otherwise anonymous soi, a few minutes' stroll from the beach, BYD Lofts is home to 19 smart, minimalist one- and two-bedroomed suites, each with a fitted kitchen and floor-to-ceiling windows. The pool (perched on the roof) and a cool spa make this perfect for anyone staying for a week or more and who wants to be in the centre of the action, while Jean-Pierre, the street-side restaurant, has a neat selection of indoor and outdoor seating. - Ed Peters

Tuesday, 12 August, 2008, 08:15 AEST

Hong Kong's cupcake craze

Chinese desserts, with their red bean paste and other nuanced delicacies, are not for every palate. These days, cupcake cafes are popping up around Hong Kong, appealing to anyone who likes something sweet while hopping from shop to shop. Around the corner from Shanghai Tang, the just opened Cake-a-Licious (11 Lyndhurst Terrace, Lower Ground Floor, Central, Hong Kong; 852-2815-2218) beckons sweet teeth underground where a tiny display case proffers sprinkle and iced flower-covered treats in classic chocolate and vanilla as well as lemon, the owner's own favorite. Those who want to linger through their sugar high can settle in at Sift (46 Graham Street, SoHo, Hong Kong 852-2530-4288) a sexy, low lit dessert bar owned by a New York trained pastry chef who understands that nothing lures in the prettiest girls like fluffy red velvet cupcakes. - CYNTHIA ROSENFELD

Friday, 18 July, 2008, 14:06 AEST

Meatpacking them in

New Yorkers tend towards loyalty to their neighborhood restaurants, so when chef Scott Conant opened Scarpetta in the thriving Meatpacking District, he risked losing a considerable battalion of the Upper East Side types already familiar with his signature dishes — including creamy polenta with fricassee of truffled mushrooms — from previous stints at L'Impero and Alto. But he needn't worry, his die-hard fans, and some curious downtown types, have been flocking to the rustic chic raw wood and exposed brick dining room with a stunning retractable glass roof. Another good sign: most who come are acting out the restaurant's name, derived from the Italian fare la scarpetta, meaning to wipe the plate clean with a hunk of bread. Start with the raw yellowtail topped with pickled onions and fine baby watercress and leave room for Conant's homemade spaghetti which the Italian-American with roots north of Naples claims is "made with alotta love".  (+1 212 691 0555; 355 W 14th Street) - CYNTHIA ROSENFELD

Wednesday, 9 July, 2008, 13:28 AEST

It's a G thing

New hotels in Beijing are getting into the starting blocks with the alacrity of sprinters at the start of the 100 metres. The latest contender in the Olympic capital is the 110-room Hotel G. It's a startlingly innovative boutique, with a 1960s retro design theme, a restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine with a Tibetan twist, a fifth-floor garden retreat with outdoor Jacuzzis, and staff uniforms styled by the celebrated Han Feng. In case you're still wondering what you're in for, G's Chinese name is Ji Zhan, which translates as "ultra luxury". - ED PETERS

Friday, 4 July, 2008, 14:37 AEST

Thailand's royal treatment

Get pampered in Phuket...

What could possibly be better than a four-handed massage? Try a six-hander. Fit for a prince, princess, or indeed any pretender to the throne, the Royal is the latest in pampering at Trisara, the most palatial resort on Phuket. Starting with a lemongrass foot scrub, and progressing via a combination of Thai and Swedish body massage to the final coconut oil scalp and shoulder rub, ninety minutes flies by. The verdict? A sound investment of 15,000 baht (A$505). - ED PETERS

Tuesday, 1 July, 2008, 16:58 AEST

Majestic Malaysia

Relaxation gets a new name in Malaysia...

In Malaysia's ancient port of call to Malay, Chinese, Arab, Indian, Portuguese, Dutch and British seafaring traders, the Majestic Malacca welcomes modern day travelers with a charming old-fashioned carved wood bar, long arm planter's chairs and original floral floor tiles inside the colonial mansion turned hotel. Four poster beds and clawed bathtubs extend the historic vibe into 54 otherwise modern guestrooms, some with Malacca River views. The helpful hotel staff even learns overnight guests' names and can organize historic walks that take in Malacca's quirky architectural highlights like the 17th century Dutch Stadhuys, or town hall, painted cherry red by the British in 1911. Return to the inn for exceptional spa treatments that commence with a hair wash and therapeutic scalp massage inspired by this region's 12-day bridal ritual. - CYNTHIA ROSENFELD

Tuesday, 24 June, 2008, 13:42 AEST

Cheese lover's heaven

Cheese enthusiasts will thrill to the queso selection at the swanky new Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt in Buenos Aires. An artisanal cheese room, just off the 7000 bottle-strong vinoteca, is the first of its kind in the country, offering 40 varieties of cow, sheep and goat vintages, all from Argentina. The room even has its own Maître Fromager, Mercedes Silva Rodriguez, to oversee wine and cheese tastings at the marble-topped bar.
Avenida Alvear 1661; +54 11 5171 1510; buenosaires.park.hyatt.com - EMMA SLOLEY

Friday, 20 June, 2008, 13:45 AEST

Savoury Singapore

Foie gras crème brulee and grilled lobster are only two of the savory bites on display during the St Regis Singapore's Sunday brunch at Les Saveurs, an elaborate affair that's quickly eclipsing the local competition. Make space for the extensive selection of imported hams, prosciuttos and chorizos, copious bowls filled with organic greens and an aromatic cheese selection, then elbow your way in with the wide-eyed children (of all ages, actually) who gather around the pastry chef's soufflé baking table. On all other days, satisfy the palate with divine dim sum at Yan Ting, the in-house Cantonese eatery, or head back to the lobby-level French for exquisite afternoon tea featuring Dammann Freres leaves and Asia's best Madeleine. At any hour, room service will deliver a to-die-for Wagyu beef burger with sublime French fries. (+65-6506-6888; stregis.com) - CYNTHIA ROSENFELD

Friday, 13 June, 2008, 12:39 AEST

Sax in the City

A musical interlude in Hong Kong Harbour...

Call it Sax in the City, call it HK2O Jazz - from now until the end of June Hong Kong's smartest traditional junk, aqua luna, will be plying the waters of Victoria Harbour every evening with hip local saxophonist Wing Chu adding the sound of surprise to the amazing vistas of the neon-lit, skyscraper-filled skyline. Plus passengers lolling on the upper deck's sofas and cushions can indulge themselves with unlimited drinks and canapés during the two-hour voyage, which is priced at HK$488 (A$67). Call +852 2116 8821 or email aqualuna@aqua.com.hk for reservations. - ED PETERS

Thursday, 5 June, 2008, 10:08 AEST

Imagine all the rooms

A Beatles-themed hotel welcomes the world in Liverpool...

"Hard Days Night" might not seem an obvious choice for a hotel name - but when it's in Liverpool, the Beatles connection is one worth milking. Recast from a Victorian office building at the heart of the city's former commercial hub - read 'good bones' - the 110-room four-star opened its doors in February, with an ambiance that says 'Love Me Do' to any Beatlemaniac. Statues of the fab four decorate the entrance, there's a throbbing Yellow Submarine jukebox in the lobby and Beatles hits run non-stop over the hotel's sound system. Rooms are big and spunky, a portrait of one of the boys hangs over your bed and the lighting controls are some of the best ever for your fussy correspondent. Another plus - it's just around the corner from The Cavern, a regular gig for the mop top lads, and now a venue for Beatles cover bands.  - MICHAEL GEBICKI (PHOTO: Ellie Laycock)

Wednesday, 28 May, 2008, 21:30 AEST

Styling in Sri Lanka

Two new resorts raise the bar for luxury on the island nation...

The ornate 1929 building known as Tintagel (94-11-460-2060; A$210-$365) was home to Sri Lanka's ruling Bandaranaike family for five decades before the island's style maven Shanth Fernando took possession, turning the grand dame into Colombo's most eclectic new boutique hotel. Throughout the ten roomy suites, the founder of Paradise Road, this city's must-stop shop for global nomads, mixes the brand's signature earthy textiles and dreamy Ploh bed linens with one-of-a-kind souvenirs from his own wanderings, like the bar's exquisite mirror that once graced the interior of a French chateau. A proud supporter of his country's artistic achievements, Shanth gives prime wallspace to artists associated with his native land, like Lionel Wendt's tender photographs and Saskia Pringiers' subdued yet provocative paintings . 

Far less decorative but no less memorable, Alankuda Beach (94-602-324-855; A$265, all-inclusive) adds an Indian Oceanfront alternative to upcountry Ulpotha, Sri Lanka's renowned Ayurvedic and yoga retreat set in organic rice terraces outside Kandy. This beach chic sibling offers marine adventures such as dolphin watching, wind surfing, sailing and snorkeling in pristine waters three hours north of Colombo. Four traditional wattle and daub cabanas plus two double-roomed cottages, all outfitted with Indian cotton linens are scattered across the powdery spit of sand for maximum privacy. An open air restaurant overlooks the Indian Ocean but most guests gravitate to the beach bar for sunset and impromptu late night parties. A 40-meter pool adds pizzazz to this otherwise laid-back environment that's especially pleasant during the months of November to April.  - CYNTHIA ROSENFELD

Thursday, 22 May, 2008, 09:07 AEST

Chi raising experience

Fiji gets it's first residential spa...

A first for Fiji, Shangri-La's Fijian Resort & Spa, Yanuca's ten brand new ocean-side bures are the only residential spa accommodation on the islands. On top of luxury add-ons like buggies and butlers, tradition plays an important part in this stand-alone spa village; the bures are built from kesi wood, which is used for traditional canoes and kava bowls, and one third of the spa menu is made up of age-old Fijian remedies. Top treatment is the Bobo - a firm coconut oil massage followed by a warm poultice of medicinal herbs such as makita and macou. - ED PETERS

Monday, 19 May, 2008, 10:20 AEST

North African detour

Shopping in Rabat, Morocco...

Marrakech and Fez might get all the press, but Morocco's capital city, Rabat, is well worth a detour, especially for its beguiling souk, or marketplace (which also has the virtue of being less overwhelmingly chaotic than some other Moroccan cities). If you'd rather bypass the haggling and claustrophobia altogether, check out the charming boutique at the entrance of the Rue des Consuls souk called Khalik Lili. French proprietor Christine Podgorny stocks beaded slippers, embellished straw bags, African wooden masks, scented candles and jewelry incorporating the "Hand of Fatima", a traditional symbol to ward off evil. She also carries a range of essential oils called L'Orientaliste, and everything in store is made in Morocco.
17 Place des Oudayas, Rabat; +212 (0) 1372 9642 - EMMA SLOLEY

Monday, 12 May, 2008, 13:52 AEST

Boutique Bali

The room service menu at the new 60 room beachfront Anantara Seminyak offers more than fresh salads, authentic Thai dishes and the usual comfort food - guests can actually buy a guestroom. Those who love a black sand beach, who surf, or love the Bali nightlife, couldn't ask for a better dessert than this novel investment, but those simply seeking the isle's hottest nightlife can zoom to the rooftop S.O.S. bar where sublime sunsets are best enjoyed on the plush sea-facing beds. One of Bali's better wine and spirits lists is augmented by fabulous finger food, especially the delectable squid, lamb and sirloin skewers delivered on funky grills shaped like sea urchins. Generous guestrooms encourage revellers to check in and groove to these sleek spaces with indoor and outdoor baths, cushy platform beds and endearing turndown treats. - CYNTHIA ROSENFELD

Monday, 5 May, 2008, 11:14 AEST

The Paris revolt hits London

It is a fair assertion that one reason for the continued scrutiny of the events that took place in Paris in May 1968 is a general bewilderment, 40 years on, as to what the much-celebrated student revolt was actually about.

An excellent — and free — exhibition running until 1 June at London's Hayward Gallery does well to avoid analysis, and instead focuses on the art created amid the flying cobblestones and clouds of tear gas. The spare, stark nature of these screen prints was a necessity of the chaos and haste that attended their manufacture, but it has lent a haunting potency to the retrospectively quaint naivete of their politics. The period is evoked further with a Magnum Photos montage of Bruno Barbey's photographs, set to the music of the period — Jimi Hendrix, James Brown, Thunderclap Newman — and the legacy is illustrated with some more modern artefacts which owe their existence to the student revolt. The pick of the show is a 1980s boardgame set in and around the Sorbonne in May 1968: appropriately inflammatory counters are stacked in a corner labelled 'Reserve de cocktails Molotov'. - ANDREW MUELLER

Tuesday, 29 April, 2008, 09:08 AEST

Yaks okay

Pashmina shmashmina - the latest in threads is shokay, hand-combed Tibetan yak down that spells stylish sustainable development.

As soft and warm as cashmere, shokay throws, scarves and other items such as slumber party slippers and cushions - plus a range of baby items - are being marketed by Harvard graduates Marie So and Carol Chyau, as part of a project (www.venturesindev.org) to help China's rural poor. A portion of the profits are returned to the yak herders to assist with health and education development. As a supplementary scheme, they're also developing yak cheese - Geza Gold - a robust complement to salads and pastas. - ED PETERS

Wednesday, 23 April, 2008, 15:08 AEST

Hot in the Maldives

The island country's newest resorts come out to play...

Six tents grace Banyan Tree Madivaru's sun kissed Maldivian shores but this is no camping trip. Each of the ultra-deluxe canvas clad suites comes with a personal butler, who delivers delectably healthy meals and arranges scuba and snorkeling plus a sunset Champagne cruise aboard Madi, the stunning Turkish Gullet, that's included in the package price. Take advantage of Banyan Tree's rightly famous spa treatments without the crowds, especially the Thai honey facial and lime yoghurt body scrub (960-666-0760; banyantree.com; doubles A$4,100- $5,300).

Meanwhile, bragging rights belong to those who make their way to the Maldives' northernmost tongue-twisting Ihavandhippolhu Atoll where The Beach House Manafaru hides some of its 68 guestrooms on the sandy fringe of a wild palm and pandanus jungle and plants others grandly above a pristine lagoon best described as "swimming-pool blue". An acrobatic trampoline and the Maldives' only 18-hole golf simulator are among the unexpected amenities here, along with a traditional sand massage rarely found among the atolls' sybaritic spas. (960-650-0400; beachhousecollection.com; doubles A$740- $1,350) - CYNTHIA ROSENFELD

Wednesday, 16 April, 2008, 08:29 AEST

One for the chocoholics

It's not too early to start dieting - or should that be drooling?

The newest jewel on Phuket, The Yamu, is a while away from opening, but it's already the centre of a vortex of excitement. Legendary architects Jean-Michel Gathy and Philippe Starck have included a Chocolate Room, fashioned out of black glass and lit by chandeliers. Intended as a place of pilgrimage for chocoholics from around the world, owner Adrian Zecha reckons chocolate is "the new wine, the new cheese, the new cigar". Other yummy Yamu stuff includes 63 suites, a 100-metre pool, and a recording studio and artists' gallery. - ED PETERS

Wednesday, 9 April, 2008, 08:35 AEST

Japan in Phuket

Trust Amanresorts' founder Adrian Zecha to reel in only the tastiest catch to his iconic Amanpuri resort along Phuket's Pansea Beach...

At Naoki, Kyoto based celebrity chef Naoki Okumura presides over an al fresco 26-seat outpost of his French influenced Japanese cuisine first made famous at Okumura in Kyoto's historic Gion district. Borderless culinary combinations like the chawanmushi, a foie gras and steamed okra custard with Japanese okura leaf are delivered in judicious portions to make way for the ishiyaki hot stone grill of lobster and mushrooms and houba yaki, a charcoal grilled duck or beef with roasted pumpkin and crisp magnolia leaf. Succulent sashimi arrives fresh from the Tokyo fish market and the irreverent rice burger with chicken teriyaki is appropriately served with tomatoes, lettuce and, of course, mayonnaise. (amanresorts.com; 66-76-324-100)- CYNTHIA ROSENFELD

Friday, 4 April, 2008, 09:18 AEST

The Peninsula Hong Kong steps back in time

They're not so much beginning the Beguine, as playing it all over again at The Peninsula in Hong Kong. To celebrate the hotel's 80th anniversary, on the first Sunday of every month the lobby (quick) steps back to 1928, with staff in period uniform, strolling "cigarette girls" selling chocolate cigars, and the strains of the live band's dance music wafting up to its grandiose ceiling. Dress code is strictly Sunday best. Those blessed with two left feet can simply devote themselves to the deluxe afternoon tea, which tastes all the better for being washed down with Champagne. - ED PETERS