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Ormeggio

Ormeggio has lifted its sights. This is not to say things weren’t ticking along nicely as they were; the restaurant’s focus on the food of Lombardy gave it a strong, unique selling point, and while its location inside a marina can make it seem like a boat shop canteen at times, the waterside setting, by the Spit Bridge, has a certain magic. But now that focus is sharper, and its expression more confident. Fat tubes of maccheroncini, lubed with both sautéed cabbage and cabbage purée and smoky with guanciale, equal masterful pasta; ditto the casoncelli, half-moons with a mortadella stuffing, sauced with brown sage butter. Roast long onions laid over a light sheep’s milk Gorgonzola mousse and cut with horseradish and the acidity of raspberries make for a salad as unusual as it is impressive. Warm service and a vibrant wine list don’t hurt, either. Va bene.