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Pata Negra

While the name and wine list big on sherry and garnacha both channel Spain’s tapas bars, an ever-increasing Moorish accent distances this high-energy room from its ilk. The informal setting and affable but sometimes green service suggest casual, but Kurt Sampson’s honest, earthy cooking serves as a better barometer of intent. Meaty dishes from the small (empanadillas of meltingly tender oxtail) to the big (say hola to fabada, a rich stew of duck, pork, chickpeas and beans) play to the kitchen’s strengths. Wood-roasted prawns with chimichurri and pan-fried scallops with sofrito are good representatives of the seafood inclusions, while vegetarian dishes such as pies jammed with smoky zucchini, walnut and feta are sure to thrill. Explore the dessert options, but rest assured the fabled cinnamon doughnuts with lush Pedro Ximénez ice-cream are a permanent fixture.