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Pearl

Geoff Lindsay keeps reinventing this consistently fashionable and adventurous inner-city restaurant. You can feel the energy. With his new café open nearby (and the brunching menu moving with it) the restaurant is now purely about the high-end, à la carte mod Oz food that is Lindsay’s forte, with the bar now used for a slightly less formal tasting menu. But it’s in the dining room that you’ll find the essence of the place: contemporary design, sharp service and unique food, often with an Asian inflection. Standards – Lindsay’s brilliant steak tartare, wok-fried pearl meat, curried duck or tuna with smoked fish and galangal salad – share the stage with newer creations, such as a wagyu sukiyaki or fried flathead with banana flower and Vietnamese mint salad. Pearl’s wine approach is strong, too: a fine list, excellent sommeliers and very sensible prices. A consistently impressive package.