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Pier

It’s been more than a year since Pier repositioned itself away from starched fine dining and “back to the local community”, as the website puts it, but at prices like these there’s no risk of mistaking today’s Pier for a soup kitchen. The paring back is most evident in the entrées. Raw salmon in crisp cones, oysters, ocean trout tartare, John Dory carpaccio– seafood is the scarcely altered star. There’s more technique in scallops with confit pork belly, a rare case of turf outshining surf. Breaded kingfish, fried to a crunch in thinly sliced white bread, sits aside artful circles of almond foam. Kudos for the mouth-puckering buttermilk chiboust with pine-lime granita – the only more refreshing finish would require diving through the window into the harbour. Cheerful wait-staff would no doubt be on hand to dry you off and hand you a glass of something French and bubbly from the wonderful wine list.