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Port Phillip Dining

This rammed-earth fortress, set amid native grasses and spotted gums, offers one of Victoria’s most dramatic restaurant and cellar door experiences. The soaring steel, stone and glass space is divided by a fireplace and bright lounge furniture into drinking and dining areas, both with bucolic views over vine-crossed slopes. Accomplished dishes show similar flair: carpaccio of blushing pink marinated kingfish strewn with strands of dill, fried capers and Spanish onion, and an open rye sandwich of spanner crab with micro-herbs, white asparagus and salmon pearls. The signature roast blue-eye fillet is modest in size but big on flavour thanks to a buttery sauce studded with fat mussels, peas and broad beans. The wine list celebrates single-estate pinots, a hit parade of Burgundies and famous Italians. Molten-centred chocolate pudding with vanilla-bean ice-cream provides a suitably striking finish.