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Provenance

It used to be gold luring the hordes to Beechworth; now it’s food and wine. Leading the charge are chef Michael Ryan and his partner, Jeanette Henderson, who crafts the wonderful wine list that extends from local champions to fine sake. Many dishes have a Japanese aesthetic, which is why Ryan’s poached octopus and sake-infused cucumber is subtly flavoured with pickled ginger and a hint of ponzu. He’s not following a whim – Asian flavours have always featured here. Besides, the dishes have integrity, as seen in the Berkshire pork belly – a perfect square of meat and rendered fat, the richness offset by a cup of pork dashi. Exquisite. Desserts are more mainstream but no less wonderful – proof is in the gingerbread sandwich with creamy parfait flecked with honeycomb. In a heritage-listed building, Provenance is one of Victoria’s most exciting dining destinations.