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Pulp Kitchen

Inner-north residents continue to fête Christian Hauberg’s decision to trade Paris’s eighth for this café-like shopfront in Canberra’s Ainslie arrondissement. Since his return in the mid-noughties, Hauberg has strived to convert locals to his nose-to-tail culinary persuasions. First, it was gently seared calf’s liver. Next a punchy and peppery beef tartare. And now a dish of pig’s feet and boudin noir that is head, shoulders and trotters above other local bistro offerings. A crumbed exterior gives way to soft, rich braised and pressed meat, well balanced by the acidity of gently stewed apple and creamed sautéed leek. In winter, the kitchen celebrates another link between the ACT and the south of France – abundant and impressive black truffles. Throw in an affable Breton floor manager to recommend a Normandy cider to go with some Pont l’Évêque and Jean-Claude’s your oncle.